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Getting Critical


By Jessie Cacciola
Published: September 12, 2008

Fashion Week is nearing its end, and Shelby has some beef with Marc Jacobs. Last time, she picked out trends; now she's picking apart the designers. Who made her best and worst lists this season?

The Bad List

Marc Jacobs: Sigh. This man can’t get enough press, hype, and praise--from everywhere. You know what I think? OVER IT. Yes, his looks were well thought out. They used new details and impressive fabrics, but to me the collections teeter awkwardly between runway and real life; the looks aren’t extreme or interesting enough to be exclusively editorial or the guiding light for new, forward-thinking fashion.

And as for Marc by Marc Jacobs: I was just not blown away. To me this is a brand that people who want to be 'in the know' wear. If they were in any kind of know, they would know better. Feel more than free to disagree with me on this one. Almost everyone does.

Calvin Klein: He was loved by WWD, bashed by style.com, and looked over briskly by yours truly. Yawn. I want more new simple classic silouttes from him like we were blessed with in the 90s.

Zac Posen: I found this line a dissapointement as well! It was a bit disjointed, and he didn’t offer us wild takes on new inventive details like I’ve enjoyed so much from him in the past.

The Good List

3.1 Philip Lim got my stamp of approval yet again (although I preferred the fall jewelry--it was perfection!). His ruffled blazer (pictured left) seemed to sum up spring perfectly: a men’s blazer with a not-too girly, but just feminine enough ruffle, in a shade caught between spring brights and the neutrals that are in abundance. Style.com bashed his “kooky” belts tied almost like bows, but I thought they were stellar (again, menswear/feminine pairing), and his take on the metal-zipper-as-trim detail was somehow fresh and quite visually appealing.

Devi Kroell: Though some looks from this jewelry designer’s first take at clothing flopped, some pieces worked for me. An oversized short and pleated flower tank combo, as well as an incredible cape over pants, stood out, and justified her efforts at RTW.

Doo.Ri: Some looks from this line were both interesting and wearable (always a plus!) and I was excited to see some of my own spring colors pop up on her runway (as they did at some of the other more color-filled runways).

Georgina Chapman at Marchesa: She maintained her rep as master craftswomen of beautiful, intricate gowns. One unbelievably stunning look (pictured left) was justified in winning the prime real estate as the featured look on the home page of style.com.

Matthew Williamson: He sent some great colors down the runway, in looks that were fresh, sophisticated, and rockin all at once! (Things I would like to wear when I start acting my age.) He was successful as well at the hard/masculine meets soft/feminine look that I just can't get enough of. I look forward to seeing what kind of wild treats he has to offer us at Pucci during Milan Fashion Week!

--Shelby 

(images via style.com) 

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