Runway Driven
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While the tents at Bryant Park bustle with last minute preparations for New York Fashion Week, Imprint sits down with up-and-coming designer, Shelby Scudder.
In a messy Manhattan studio--filled with sketches, markers, magazines, trims, and snacks--Shelby Scudder sits at her swatch-ridden, U-shaped desk.
The site of this design haven is the workspace of AV, Alvin Valley’s new edgier/sexier/younger fashion line—a line that has already been welcomed by The Hills’ Audrina Patridge and several note-worthy models. And Scudder is their headlining designer—creatively directed by Mister Alvin Valley, himself.
By now, she’s probably had her hard-boiled egg for the morning, and any minute will turn on some music, flip through magazines, and log onto WWD (Women’s Wear Daily) to start her day.
“It’s not a romantic scene. I arrive to work at 9:00…or, maybe a little later,” she laughs. “And boom—you have to be inspired! You have to be creative.”
While perhaps a home studio would be ideal, with its freedom to work whenever inspiration hits, Scudder seems to manage just fine--and is more than grateful.
Just over a year ago, she was graduating from a four-year program at Washington University at St. Louis, where she studied as a fashion design major. During her summers, she had two internships: In 2005, for Zandra Rhodes, an acclaimed British designer; and in 2006, for Holly Dunlap of Hollywould.
But the real jump-starter was moving to New York after graduation, and landing a job working for Norma Kamali Everlast. Now we hit the rocky road; shortly after signing on with Everlast, Norma decides she no longer wants to design the line. But there was something that just couldn’t be put to rest—their signature Poly Lycra fabric.
Cue Alvin Valley, a high-end women’s wear label (best known for their perfect-fitting pants). The line happened to be licensed by the same company as Everlast, so when Alvin heard that Everlast was closing its doors, he couldn’t resist taking a peek to check out the goods on that fabric. And whence he glanced, who would he find but Miss Shelby Scudder.
“This fabric, a slinky knit, strays from Alvin’s typical, menswear-inspired, woven fabrics, and thus he decided it needed to be separate. At that point he created AV, by Alvin Valley,” states Scudder. “As I was now an expert in the fabric, I had the incredible opportunity to design this new line!”
So how does it all work—from idea to runway-ready?
Since Alvin is still the Creative Director for AV, he sets the tone for each season. Typically, he likes to stem from one lime-lit girl for inspiration (this season is model, Lauren Hutton).
Once the tone is set, Shelby is off to design the new look. This entails hours of sketching, draping, and re-sketching (over 50 styles have been dropped in this process). Luckily, she can then work with an in-house sample team. And after meeting with a pattern maker to decide the fit and fabric, the work is then handed off to a sewer and is finally ready for approval. This is the time for Alvin to step in with his experienced, editing-eye.
“He knows so well just how to tweak the littlest thing to make a piece that much better. He thinks of things that would never cross my mind, and it’s thrilling to be around.”
At any point, these looks may have the fortune of being publicized and worn by celebrities. Such was the case when the stylists for The Hills were looking for designers to dress the girls for their finale show last season.
“I would not believe it until I saw Audrina wearing my dress on TV,” says Scudder, in a girlish pitch, and with the rapidity of a short-order cook, undulating with excitement. “I texted everyone I knew!”
She compares the moment to TV-show, Project Runway, when designing contestants are given the chance to design for a show, or label, where their work will actually be featured.
“It’s one of those moments. Crazy.”
And it all started with a little sewing machine, during her freshman year of High School. Scudder would buy vintage pieces and reconstruct the designs at home.
“One day, my mom was like, ‘you love this so much; why don’t you do this.’ And I really wasn’t sure.” But after soaking in the college experience (always with the option to switch into liberal arts) Scudder never wanted to stop designing fashion.
AV launched for Holiday/Resort 2008, and their first Spring line hits stores at Coterie September 16. You can follow Shelby Scudder’s insights into New York Fashion Week right here with her Imprint blog.





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